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Inspiration in Dislocation - New York

From the first exit, it was an immediate departure for the fully-fledged underwear to outerwear brand, VPL. A black feathery textured throw enveloped the inventive knickers underneath. Jackets were fractioned at the sleeves with uneven hems, like they have been dislocated and thoughtfully mended back to form, retaining the corrections from the surgery. Leggings with overlap seaming created interesting focal points. Dresses were sliced and wrap across the body and were very flattering just below the hip. The movement of asymmetrical wool and metallic sweaters with hanging loops was unusual and original.

VPL clearly worships the body, its evident from the gracefully swooping lines encircling the lean girls, but also challenges it, adding layers and extensions, giving us new ideas of what we actually do consider part of our person. A print on the front of a banded bra was reminiscent of an abstract take on Michelangelo’s Creation of Adam, but a Gerhard Ritcher painting version of it. It is a curious association, but it seemed to jive. The palette treaded into bruise tones, shiny mildew bronzed greens, rich navy and lavender gray. Victoria Bartlett seemed to be mulling over the idea that there must be beauty inside of the pain of injuries. The VPL silhouette had been wounded and Bartlett was seeking inventive ways to put it back together.

The show concluded with a series of hair body suits and corsets by Shoplifter and Edda. VPL may be on to something with this collaboration, just as knitwear designer Tom Scott took reference from ‘hair culture’ with his knitwear collection inspired by tresses in twists and braids. Is hair poised to be the next trend after the fur coat explosion we have been seeing? Surely, It would be considered a more sustainable and environmentally sound notion.

By Anush Mirbegian