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London Retail Update - First Look at AW2010

On the womenswear front, no points for guessing that Phoebe Philo’s distinctive look for Celine is going to be a huge hit. We’re already seeing tan or black leather everything…shorts, skirts, tees, dresses! Sheer shirts with mannish shoulders and roll sleeved blazers (in Chloe terracotta) complete the look. We’re also seeing Beautiful Goth influences coming through – less punk rocky, more romantic with full length sheer black maxis and everyday lace (we saw a fab foiled crochet number in COS). The fast-fashion chains like H&M and New Look are leading with pretty pinks and pearls, which looks pretty standard and uninspiring. The mainstream retailers like Dorothy Perkins, Next, River Island and Miss Selfridge are easing into autumn with contrast print and textured layers unlike Topshop who already have chunky scarves wrapped around the mannequins!

For menswear, watch out for sports-meets-workwear influences. Think flannel jogging pants with sneaker/formal hybrids, hooded blazers and drawstring shirting. Bailey’s Burberry baker boys could well be the pin-ups of the season incorporating easy tailoring with cosy winter wools, crisp shirting and a heritage twist. Military influences are still coming through but not with top-to-bottom obvious styling. This time, cargo shorts are teamed with a cotton shirt or cropped Peacoat. A soft chambray utility shirt might be teamed with a knitted cardigan and then paratrooper boots.

There’s still plenty more to come, watch this space as we bring you more retail trend reports as the season evolves…