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London Womens AW10/11 - our favorite collections

It was interesting to see a few designers breaking out of their comfort zone, Mark Fast for example inverted his trademark body con silhouettes away from the body into something more fluid whilst Mary Katrantzou proved she was one than just a one-trick print pony, experimenting more with silhouette. Meadham Kirchhoff broke out of their romantic goth capsule offering in place of a fun, gypsy vibe. At the other end of the scale we saw some labels rocking their winning signatures- Burberry Prorsum showcased classic Burberry Prorsum with seasoned command of that rich organic palette and high-quality cuts. Erdem was the same, taking his trademark dalliances with florals and interpreting them with a new paintbox onto super-wearable pieces. Holly Fulton gains momentum as a formidable talent picking up the Elle Style Awards Designer of the Year gong and it will be interesting to track her development as a commercial mainstay.

CHRISTOPHER KANE
Every Kane collection has a distinctive, cohesive theme whether it be burlesque denim or deconstructed gingham. This season, the designer worked a sexy take on the folk trend in various combinations of panelled black leather, black lace and bright floral embroidery. Inspired by his Scottish Catholic upbringing, skirts had a school-girl kilt feel somewhat ‘inappropriately’ paired with sheer or lace, buttoned-up blouses. The embroidered double-breasted blazer and coated skirt combo felt like a commercial winner adding a bucolic touch to the city wardrobe. Prada Fall 2008 was evoked with lacework pencil dresses. Starburst embellishments could have been lifted off Tarot cards, adding a finishing touch of Gypsy Magic.

MARY KATRANTZOU
Katrantzou was one of the London designers attempting to break out of their pigeonhole. Having conquered the digital print arena, culminating in a recent collaboration with high-street retailer Topshop it was time to prove – what else? Portraits of Madame de Pompadour and the paintings of Fragonard and Nattier inspired something of a ‘reworked-rococo heroine.’ Instead of piling on the ruffles, curlicue frills, drape, embellishment and rich fabrics Katrantzou cleverly worked all the feel of the ornate 18th century into her trademark all-over prints. Think more Gianni Versace than Christian Lacroix. Clever cutwork and placement embellishment like tulle flourishes and jewellery beading offered just enough of a three-dimensional element to contemporary dress shapes and blouses.

UNIQUE
A fun fixture on the LFW schedule, Topshop Unique allows the designers at the high-street retailer let their creative streak run free. A radical departure from last season’s eighties surf, this season was Fantastic Mr Fox meets the Boy Scouts, with a dash of Deerstalking Inuit. This was kit fit for a fantasy camping trip with utility pockets to stash woodland finds, boy pyjama striped shirts for midnight feasts, fun wolf-fur suiting teamed with chunky cable knit tights all topped with riding boots, holsters and satchels. Feral furs and shearlings reinforced the ‘Call of the Wild’ trend. Much needed femininity came in long length cardigans worn over sheer skirts, a twig-torn tulle frock and a little stiffened organza mini. The shrunken Boy Scout uniform covered with badges and the rabbit tail cardigan were two of our favourite looks.

RICHARD NICOLL
Richard Nicoll’s interchangeable separates built a wardrobe fit for a woman. Girlish lengths and sweet colours were supplanted with respectable cuts and a practical shade card. Grey shades of British raincloud let the grown-up deconstruction do the talking. Proportions were layered - a cropped jacket over a mini dress over cigarette pants. Blazer jackets were semi-wrapped or cut away whilst waist bands and pockets were twisted off centre. We saw a few hybrid garments in a mini-meets-draped-maxi skirt and blouse-meets-bomber shirt. Burnt Sienna and also Petrol Blue looked striking, and a little Lanvin in rich velvet and layered sheers. He even worked adult-grunge in long knits over sheer skirts. It was grown-up, sophisticated yet full of interesting twists.

BURBERRY PRORSUM
Christopher Bailey is on a roll. Having been one of the earlier pioneers of the live streamed catwalk show, he went one better in stereoscopic 3D and then put his ultra-desirable outerwear on pre-order for the three days directly following the live show! What’s more, he can ‘support’ his clever marketing with a spot-on collection. Every look comprised of covetable pieces that could be incorporated into most women’s wardrobes whilst still exuding that expensive, out-of reach luxury quality. Outerwear was the star from giant collared aviators to military inspired - justify your purchase by opting for one of the zip-off jackets that become a 2-in-1 long length and cropped version. Texture was high on the agenda again with fur, ponyskin, suede, ruched velvet and sheepskin teamed along with romantic ruffled and/or ruched lace mini dresses, boy shirts and thigh high stiletto boots. The colour palette was pure Burberry with olive gold, ochre, crème, charcoal, naval blue, plum and bitter chocolate. An indubitable triumph all round.

PRINGLE of SCOTLAND
After a slow ascendancy into the style peripheral the talent of Clare Waight Keller is injecting cool back into the traditional Scottish knitwear label. Another marketing pro, the appointment of Tilda Swinton as the label’s face along with shrewd collaborations with industry hotshots like Ryan McGinley has helped concrete a new identity for the brand. For the AW 2010 collection, the Scottish moorland inspired an atmospheric palette of stone, storm cloud greys and moss. Scottish heritage was alluded to in shearling-faced leather kilt skirts, a dash of brushed plaid and traditional Celtic tabards- all without a hint of ‘Braveheart’. Of Course, knit was fundamental with cable and bobble styles teamed with bucket pocket.