Blog

London Womens AW10/11 Trend wrap

London Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2010-11 felt altogether more accessible in terms of commercial pieces and a lot more season-appropriate than previous Fall editions (sheers and thigh-high lengths?) In terms of what’s on the radar, Outerwear is set to bear some of the season’s star items with capes, blanket coats and menswear-inspired aviator jackets promising the most covetable cover-ups of choice. Mini lengths have significantly lengthened to maxi proportions on skirts and jackets, lending well to the neo-Grunge, Folk and Grown-Up trends coming through. Keeping on the theme of practicality, Shearling was almost mandatory in every collection from Vivienne Westwood Red Label to Burberry Prorsum and everyone in between along with super-tactile plush, ‘soft toy’ furs and chunky animal hides at the likes of Erdem and Topshop Unique respectively. Warmer climes may alternatively opt for tactile felts and flannels for their winter texture. There was a marginal sense of de ja vu with Prada A/W 2008 style lacework at Christopher Kane and Erdem and velvet boomeranging back for a second round. Select designers like Louise Goldin, Ann-Sofie Back, Jean Pierre Braganza and Jasper Conran championed a futuristic aesthetic in various guises but somehow it just doesn’t feel so ‘right’ for a season that seems very much grounded in existing references and a little incongruous with the pervading humble spirit.

Some of the themes filtering through included…

Call of the Wild
Faux furs, alongside some rather playful hunting headwear pieces at Topshop Unique heralded a raw Call of the Wild aesthetic, similarly filtering through from NYC. Animal hides define this trend cut rudimentary or scavenged from feral terrain at Jaeger and John Rocha. Todd Lynn and Aminka Wilmont incorporated hard-edged leathers whilst others kept theirs cosy with snugly knits and trailing yarns. The potential ferocity of the look was tempered down with items borrowed from the prettier side of the grunge trend including lightweight frocks teamed with thick tights.

Neo-Grunge
The 1990’s seem to be enjoying a real celebration as a fashion decade, what with the recent minimalist looks and now (another) grungy revival. Grunge in varying degrees was back with almost an underlying current of the austere forties looking a little more grown up and not so strictly youth-oriented. This is where the new maxi length comes into its own with long, slim fit jersey or sheer dresses worn under slightly-shorter rustic cardigans and sweaters at Topshop Unique and Richard Nicoll. In terms of print, soft-focus checks in various scales are big news moving on the humble plaid whilst faded Bloomsbury florals and sprig prints (see Paul Smith) add essential softness. Colours are totally unassuming in greys, midnight navy, shale brown, moss and ecru. For styling look to Vivienne Westwood Red Label’s ragamuffins, arm warmers at Jonathan Saunders and essential beanies and fingerless gloves at Ashish.

Romany Remix
Folk is definitely back on the menu, this time with a contemporary twist that feels a lot fresher. Hand crafted elements and home-spun heritage felt comforting. Eastern European motifs adorned all over prints and placements at Ashish, Paul Smith presented a full crochet quilt dress whilst Meadham Kirchhoff served up pure gypsy magic with glittering accessories, layered veils, laces and printed tiers. Tastemaker Christopher Kane sealed the deal with his coloured embroidery on black leather and lace. Erdem re-worked his trademark motion-blur florals into brighter embroidered placements. Slightly further West, Marios Schwab modernised references from his Austrian Heritage.

A Jilted Femininity
Femininity was kind of jilted. Pretty lingerie laces were sliced and panelled back together at Julien MacDonald whilst ultra fine knits at Bora Aksu were shredded and inter cut with sheers. Print dresses were decorated with a flourish of lace at Mary Katrantzou. Soft-structured tailoring was deconstructed and disrupted with the ‘anti-fit’ jacket cropping up at shows from Aquascutum, Richard Nicoll and Jean-Pierre Braganza.

There was definitely a Dark Edwardian vibe filtering through at the likes of Aquascutum and John Rocha with ‘S’ Silhouettes and modest lengths in gothic black. Linking back to A Jilted Femininity, felts were raw edged or distressed whilst dresses were fabricated in textural leather.