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Madeleine Vionnet
She might be the mistress of the bias cut but there’s so much more to Madeleine Vionnet’s fashion legacy. Just look at her influence on designers as varied as John Galliano, Azzedine Alaia and Issey Miyake. Or see for yourself at the Vionnet exhibition at the Musee Les Arts Decoratifs on Rue de Rivoli. Twisted, draped, embroidered and fringed, the loveliness of her work is overwhelming and surprisingly appealing almost 100 years on. Thank heavens for the skillful mirrored display allowing for a 360-degree view of most gowns. And for a reminder of vintage French vigilance in intellectual property protection, watch the minute-long film of Vionnet herself inking a thumbprint on to each hand sewn label as a sign of authenticity.
Madeleine Vionnet, puriste de la mode is on until 31 January 2010 at Les Arts Decoratifs, Paris
Alicia Pyke
