Meditations on the Thoughts Underneath

Discovering an inspiration in any art form and constantly exploring new ways to interpret it, find its facets of stimulation require an inspired eye. Victoria Bartlett, the creator and mind behind VPL, looks at the world through these keen eyes and finds limitless opportunity in the offerings of the human anatomy.

VPL, an acronym for the ‘visible panty line’, offers a unique and humorous view on dressing for an individual body by challenging the old fashion standards, the pre-established notions of what the formula for attractive and sexy is. VPL is based on the idea of bringing the outside in, creating a depth to the body, allowing its multiple layers to be reconstructed and rearranged. An undergarment becomes a visible layering tool, an accessory. The fascination with bodies, flesh, nakedness and movement have been thought out and reformed in a multitude of ways since the inception of VPL. This idea plays out on a visceral level with the design and creation of the garments and on a larger scale with VPL as a collective and its invitation to include creators in diverse disciplines.

The new collection, Atlas of Anatomy depicts the association between art and medicine. Bartlett points to medical diagrams created in the fourteenth century that are used for scientific purposes, but are intricately drawn art works, displaying each layers removal, showing the skin and interior body cavity. This reminds us what is underneath and surprises our expectations to see it on the outside, instead of hidden below. Creating prints for the first time, they appear like a close up micro lens image of inner body workings, red blood cells on their vein routes and lifeline topographical body maps. Fabrics are recycled nylons, neoprene and hold a malleable hand to show flexibility and movement. Knotted and intertwined fabrics are shoulder straps that reflect the shape of bones. Designer Aran Baik contributed three-dimensional hand crocheted wearable accessories reminiscent of a deconstructed ribcage, sternum and pelvic bone. Previous VPL collaborator, jeweler Lizzie Fortunato created resin pieces that appear to be strung together bones and vertebrae. This show was a revival of all that embodies VPL and proved that Bartlett is the ultimate surgeon slash sculptress.

Following the spring show, Bartlett presented a look into the inner linings and nakedness of VPL through an exhibition at the Dopolavoro Gallery in Milan. Offering a look at the exchange VPL has with other mediums like performance, photography, film and sculpture, Bartlett explores her various collaborations with artists that share her anatomical fascination. Just like the medical drawings that offered influence for the spring show, this exhibit peels away VPL layer upon layer, exposing the interior, the nucleus, its origins and purpose.

By Anush Mirbegian