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Milan Menswear spring/summer 2011 Top Trends

There was so much to see in Milan this season, though sometimes it was easy to forget: this is supposed to be summer! At Emporio Armani, we saw more leather than at a Tom of Finland convention (showing the Lady Gaga influence, perhaps?). Indeed, there was leather everywhere, from elegant biker jackets at D&G, to Burberry’s take on modern armour. There was a surprising amount of black, knits, layering and other winter standby’s. And then, there was divine blue – as we predicted in our LIDO trend – intense cobalt, French navy, Yves Klein blue, faded seaside blues for all occasions.

Key trends
LIDO
Almost every designer embraced blue, usually as an intense tonal colour story, or mixed with soft greys, whites and dusty browns. From petrol blue to rich French navy, blues were used for suiting (see Cavalli’s “tonic” suit) and for casual looks, sometimes mixed with denim.

EXPLORER
We predicted a slightly rugged look that embraced practicality and a sense of adventure. From Cavalli’s exotic Eastern nomads and Bottega Veneta’s well-heeled globe trotters, to Yasuhiro Mihara’s more practical explorers, the mix of travel finds, practical techno fabrics and function is a big trend.

BIKER
Motorbikes and bicycles – in fact, everything on two wheels inspired, mixing rugged masculinity with eco-chic. Of course, Moncler is the go-to brand for travel and cycle wear, and designer Thom Browne’s “Tour de France” collection used practical nylons and cires in classic cycling shapes. Elsewhere, the look was decidedly more rugged: Yasuhiro Mihara gave us covetable, beaten-up leather, while at Emporio Armani, the look veered towards leather bar. Burberry’s gentleman bikers had touches of punk and gritty rock to remind us of the brand’s English heritage.

DENIM
Always a key player, denim took two distinctive paths; patched, distressed and worn-in at D&G and Yasuhiro Mihara, or elegant with a 70’s influence at D Squared (American Gigolo was their key influence) and Roberto Cavalli. We also loved the 70s looking pale blue denim at Gucci and Pringle as well as Prada’s designer twist on the double denim look.

GATSBY
As SCOUT predicted, the elegance of the 1930s was in full swing, from refined sportswear to pleat-front trousers and cravats. No designer did it better than Salvatore Ferragamo, in creams, silver, and navy, replete with brogues and nipped-waist jackets. There was also a strong element of preppy in the picnic collection of D&G and the trench coats and collegiate jeans of Costume National.

THE 70’s
We could also call this Miami – the sultry Latin colour palette of Cuban expats, the swagger of a cream suit; the sunglasses, the unbuttoned shirts; the shorts worn with yacht-club jackets. The 70’s trouser shape – a little high-waisted, crisp front seams that would do Saturday Night Fever’s Tony Manero proud – is definitely back.

SUMMER CAMP
Definitely a high summer look, we also foreshadowed this trend; a mix of beach and hiking looks. Designers in Milan have taken it to heart and being the city of style, this is summer camp for rich boys! The practicality of the Boy Scouts meets the bold colours of a beach barbecue.