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New York Fashion Week - A Fashion Cleanse

Five days deep into New York Fashion Week, our palates were primed to be cleansed. A shadow had been cast over the week with the news of Lee McQueen’s death. There had been hints at the need to pare down at Ohne Titel, with their subtle nods to Victorian era dressing in the slight bustle back jackets and some of the best clean-cut trousers of the week. A look to the beauty at some of the shows over the weekend revealed that subtle gray and nude nail lacquer was quickly becoming a la mode.
On Monday evening, Marc Jacobs, literally, cleared the stage and acknowledged the austere tone. The collection was a lullaby to the age of well cut American sportswear, something that has been recently lost in New York. Oatmeal a line skirt suits and wrist gracing fur coats were understatement, refined. Evening looks were humble and embellishment minimal.
The Mulleavy sisters, Kate and Laura of Rodarte cited their inspirations between lucid dreaming and their intrigue with factory workers in border towns like Juarez, Mexico. It was note worthy to see the sisters lighten up the previous dark horror film inflicted collections, if only the colour palette and fabric selections lifted the sentiment. Some of the constructions proved well studied in their faded out floral twists around the body and conveyed a more complete execution than the previous seasons. Sweaters revealed bric a brac and Mexican lace beginnings and one homespun knit appeared with what seemed like a rusty red thunderbird woven into the face. The excess had melted away and that was visible in the Nicholas Kirkwood shoes. The heels resembled the wax of a melted candle over the departing glow of a nightlight. It was a good thing that felt a bit more distilled than usual for Rodarte. For this pair to tone it down, it only must mean, there is something in the air.
Matthew Ames wrapped up the somber mood in his showing that could be likened to that of a younger, stateside version of Phoebe Philos most recent work at Celine. Leather tees and dresses had an easy swing about them. Jackets effortlessly fell over the shoulders and remain spacious. Trousers were full and billowing with thoughtfully placed drapes that did not overwhelm. Lemon tree yellow and pale sea greens and blues created a fresh colour combination when balanced with camel and caramel. It is a refreshing, reference less return to simple and effectively stylish dressing.

By Anush Mirbegian