Tokyo fashion week SS2010

From October 19 – 24, Tokyo’s smart Midtown complex near Roppongi hosted a surprisingly successful fashion week. After news of Yohji Yamamoto’s bankruptcy, Versace’s departure from the Japanese market and the closing of cult brand Number (N)ine, along with the rise of mass brands like Uniqlo, H&M and Forever 21, no one expected the buyers to come in large numbers. Last year, there were only around 19 international buyers at JFW, but this time, over 125 came: a clear indication that Tokyo is seen as the place for innovative, value fashion. By staying deliberately small and niche, young Japanese brands are surviving the economic downturn. "We are a small company with a niche fanbase that buys our products, so we're doing OK for now," Matohu designer Hiroyuki Horihata told The Japan Times recently. Labels like Hisui are focusing on Japan’s high technology textiles, while other brands like the popular Mahotu, draw on traditional influences from kimono shapes to pottery designs.

Key trends:

Transparency: see-through lace, tulle and laminated fabrics. See Motonari Ono, Araisara, garconshinois.

Lingerie: whether actual lingerie or inspired pieces – shorts cut like French knickers, sheer boudoir robes, garter details. See garconshinois, Junya Tashiro.

Luxe sportswear: especially for menswear, such as the layered grey jersey pieces at Trove and tailored shorts at Dansk Mode*1. For women, sportswear combined with 80’s references – sexy, tight jersey at G.V.G.V. and rugby stripes at Mihara Yasurio.

Dishevelled layering: a mix of shabby chic and Miss Havisham romanticism, which Japanese designers do so well. See Theatreproducts, fur fur, Takumi Hatakeyama.

For more pictures, visit http://www.japan-fashion.com/English.html

Images from japanfashion.com: (in pairs) Motonari Ono, Hisui, Matohu, Fur Fur, Dansk Mode*1, Trove