Scout Blog

Make Do and Mend

2012-02-23 00:00:00

The craft revival that has been much touted as a new niche trend in all areas of product design and seen as a resurrection of forgotten pastimes of a bygone era was a surprising new addition to the Bread & Butter fair, Berlin for AW13-14. Standing out amongst the mega denim, casual and sports brands and offering something a little different to the authentic smaller labels, I noticed something was in the air with these unique designers who were using traditional methods of handcraft techniques with a fresh take on crocheting, knitting, hand sewing and embroidering, hand-dying and finishing techniques. Reminiscent of secondary school Domestic Science classes where your granny or mums favourite pastimes were learnt in order to become the perfect domestic goddess, this reaction against mass produced clothing and accessories has spawned a new generation of designers looking to re-invent the word ‘craft’ with some interesting and original collections and products. SCOUT particularly enjoyed learning about traditional dying and finishing methods at Pure Denim’s Kuyichi with real people installed into ‘real’ workshops as part of the brands VM presentation. Or the designer behind WE ARE KNITTERS hand-knitting on the stand with his mega needles using yummy coloured heavy gauge yarns, all part of the designers concept which includes fully finished garments and knitted accessories or DIY yarn and needle packs. So simple and yet so right for the times. The Blutsgeshwister label which was inspired by all things patch-worked, sewed, embroidered and hand-kitted had girls on the stand sewing garments on traditional sewing machines whilst on the Made In Germany stand traditional craftsmen were working their hands with pattern cutting, hand stitching of leather goods, traditional book binding, all part of putting the ‘hand made’ back into authentic German products which was a refreshing inclusion into a tradeshow which is as much about re-discovering the old as it is re-inventing the new.

Mag Hunter

2012-02-22 00:00:00

It is exciting when you come across a new publication. These days the Internet is pervasive; so it’s not often we find a special print connection. Here are four magazines you should get to know.

A semi-annual fashion – zine, Garmento is produced and printed in New York and features contemporary and past fashion. Striping back the layers of the fashion world and delving in-depth, posing questions such as what more there is than just the garments themselves? If you’re in need of a Garmento fix between issues then take a peek at the blog via their website for images and collections plucked from the fashion archives. (www.garmentozine.com/)

PIN-UP is not your standard architecture mag; PIN-UP focuses more on the 'spirituality' of architecture, rather than the technical side. 'PIN-UP', a term used in architecture school, is when you pin up your work before the final presentation; now you see it all and can edit and make the final changes. PIN-UP is about innovative ideas and the work in progress. In each issue you can share the works in progress, through interviews with architects, designers and artists, it takes you on a tour of buildings and spaces, encouraging the unusual and unconventional. Dressed with innovative photography and artwork, PIN-UP is certainly one to know. (http://www.pinupmagazine.org/)

Each issue of A Magazine carefully hand picks a fashion designer or fashion house to curate the issue. The chosen designer shares their own creative experience, their thoughts, their processes of creative development and their aesthetic. In the latest issue A Magazine showcases L.A sister duo Kate and Laura Mulleavy of Rodarte. We enter their world of whimsy and romance; a love letter to their home state. Rodarde take us on this personal-professional journey through the photography, art and interviews. Our favourite highlight: an editorial of actress Elle Fanning wearing the 2012 S/S collection shot by Bill Owens In Santa Fe. A must have issue for the coffee table. (http://www.amagazinecuratedby.com)

style.com is a go to website for the latest runway collections, fashion news and cutting edge street styles from all over the world. The website has now gone one step further and released a style.com magazine. Published bi-anually, the new magazine takes you further into the fashion world; with behind the scenes reporting, next season predictions, Q&As with popular style icons, and more. The large format glossy publication does style.com's reputation for creative. (www.style.com)

References
http://www.clearmag.com/luxury/the-forgotten-furniture-the-nightstands-by-pin-up/
http://www.fantasticman.com/recommendations/garmento-magazine/
http://fashiongonerogue.com/elle-fanning-rodarte-bill-owens-a-magazine/
http://www.ablogcuratedby.com/rodarte/welcome-to-the-world-of-rodarte/
http://theverymany.com/2011/10/28/111028-pin-up-magazine/

Mag Hunter

2012-02-22 00:00:00

A Profile on Crown Street

2012-02-21 00:00:00

A mere stone’s throw away from the SCOUT studio is Sydney’s iconic Crown Street. A hub of boutiques, design spaces, gourmet eateries and cafes, as well as the effortlessly cool Surry Hills set casually strolling the street, seeing and being seen.

The tree-lined stretch of style is enclosed with a charming mix of architecture, where galleries like Blank_Space hold temporary exhibitions and the occasional pop-up shop, which are always catching our eye. The windows along Crown Street are never ones to disappoint, with special mentions to the crazy displays at Holy Kitsch, a store dedicated to Mexican eccentricities, and the always chic and tonal draped apparel of Sark Design Studio.

Just off the main drag is the delightful vintage store, Dear Pluto. Here rests the clothes and eclectic bits and bobs from years gone by in what feels as welcoming as grandma’s living room.

And when we’re feeling in need of a recharge, Gnome café is a favourite for coffee and people-watching, while The Commons at the Darlinghurst end, just off Crown Street is forever alluring for an afternoon drink. We recommend Hendricks with cucumber and tonic in their enchanting summer garden. And always inspiring is The Standard Store and their beauiful, artful windows which delight, Noren Yensen created this "Indigo Lion" to celebrate the year of the Dragon

We’re certainly in the perfect location here at SCOUT, as over the last six years of our residency, we’ve watched Crown Street evolve and generate inspiration and style all on one of Sydney’s best streets.

Fabric Project by Stephanie Baechler

2012-02-20 00:00:00

Swiss artist Stéphanie Baechler creates extraordinary shapes and patchwork compositions through fabric manipulation experiments. Inspired by the familiar drapes of a curtain, pleats of fabric, billowing or deflated plastic bags, creases or wrapped up objects Baechler creates works of extraordinary printed fabric art.

Starting with the sketchbook, Baechler creates 'accidental' 2D arrangements which she then translates into 3D 'garments' through clever scanning. The result is an amazing 'trick of the eye' effect that gives the illusion of a seamstresses' cutting-room floor. The choice of colour is masterful, reading like palettes mixing a base of pastels with mustard or brick to add punch. It's a beautiful project to reference for colour, material manipulation and shapes.

L'Oreal Melbourne Fashion Week Steps it Up

2012-02-17 00:00:00

Tagging after London, you could be excused to find Melbourne's fashion week a little lacklustre in comparison, yet this year a revamped schedule, runway exclusives and a host of leading international guests welcome a somewhat 'revamped' L'Oreal Melbourne Fashion Festival.

Alongside the official LMFF Paris runway – featuring some of Australia's more prolific designers – Alex Perry will this March preview his glamourous SS12/13 Ready to Wear collection. Meanwhile Toni Maticevski's will showcase his signature couture gowns and Dita Von Teese will present her lingerie collaboration with Target Australia. Attention from the world's media and buyers is hoped to be drawn in with these exclusive events which will be supported with the continuation of talent driven shows such as: The Independent Runway and Graduate Showcase.

The Business Events Series looks this year to prove more serious and reputable, securing heavyweights from some of the industries key leaders, innovators and researchers. The talks will aim to address key issues facing the fashion industry, whilst The Fashion Industry Forums will opens up discussions on topics entitled: 'What's the Industry Verdict', 'The New Consumer' and 'Fashion Financing'.

A new iPhone and iPad app will be available to download for the festival, featuring the full program, LMFF Gallery, LMFF TV, designer information, LMFF Loves ( a directory of favourite bars, boutiques and restaurants in Melbourne) and LMFF Community (a place to access all the behind-the-scenes action that has been documented through their blog, Twitter and Facebook).

L'Oreal Melbourne Fashion Festival will run from March 8^th to 15^th.

Sugar Mountain

2012-02-16 00:00:00

Sugar Mountain may only be 2 years old but it is fast becoming one of Australia’s more cutting edge and creative festivals. We checked in to hear what was going on and heard a mix of psychedelia, garage rock and experimental electronica to approve a line-up that this year boasted Shabazz Palaces, Julianna Barwick, Thee Oh Sees, Tune-Yards, Deerhoof, John Maus, World's End Press and more. Paying as much attention to the set as they did the music, floating clouds, colourful explosions of geometric shapes and hallucinatory light projections transformed Melbourne's Forum theatre into a temporary wonderland where the mood was energetic, trippy and off-beat. What we saw was some exciting fashion lookswhich shunned the dark in favour of bright (often clashing) colours. Similarly prints went from 80's tribal to abstract geometric with makeup matching a stronger late 80's reference. In short, this multi-layered festival has it's finger on the pulse; it's bursting with energy, colour, sweet chants, abstract vocals, rhythmic beats and hypnotic art that makes this one-day festival a notable newcomer.

Girl Trends

Sequin tops

Printed playsuits

Tribal fringing

90's crop tops

Clashing prints

Leopard print

Printed leggings

High-waisted coloured denim

Tribal accessories

Boy Trends

80's Bali-esque printed shirts

Tribal knits

Denim shirts worn buttoned up

Slim cut Jeans

Striped t-shirts

Suede desert boots – in every colour

Sydney's Edible Outdoor Rooms

2012-02-15 00:00:00

We have come across a new initiative in Sydney which addresses our perception of how outdoor spaces in cities can or could be used. Self-directing a project, the team at Sam Crawford Architects have gained permission to temporarily install an Edible Garden on Foster Street, Surry Hills. The project sees a series of 3 parklets, each containing planter boxers filled with edible greenery for the local community to enjoy. The simple idea embraces a growing movement towards more engaging and shared experiences that attempt to bring back value to the concept of community. As we leave behind a more isolated way of living, initiatives such as these are highlighting our abilities to re-think, re-evaluate and take responsibility in how we want to share our communal outside spaces.

Supported by The CIty of Sydney, Edible Outdoor Rooms will run for 3 months.

Photo credits - @frostdesigns

http://www.samcrawfordarchitects.com.au/edible-outdoor-rooms/

Azzedine Alaïa in the 21st Century

2012-02-14 00:00:00

Azzedine Alaïa’s signature has underwritten many of the show stopping cuts, silhouettes and mastery of material seen on the big catwalks of today from Fendi to Viktor & Rolf. Tunisian born Alaïa is the designer’s designer, albeit a relatively reclusive one who receives just acknowledgement in a new exhibition at the Groninger Museum, Azzedine Alaïa in the 21st Century in the Netherlands.

The ‘sequel’ to a 1997 exhibition held in the same museum, part two focuses on his trademark dresses. Often described as the “sculptor of women’s bodies”, Alaïa is a true couturier and perfectionist drawing the patterns, cutting and draping obsessively, refitting and refitting until he is completely satisfied with the result. Many of the dresses on show have been re-made to fit the mannequins. The show is displayed not seasonally but by material with fur, animal prints and skins, wools, cotton, chiffon, knitwear and leather rooms filling nine galleries and 1200 sqm of pure couture.

Expect slinking velvet columns enrobing the body, second-skin anatomically seamed leathers, Mongolian fur coat dresses nipped unforgivingly at the waist and perfectly shirred ruffles. There’ll be plenty of his ‘elegant bondage’ styles on show with strategically placed zippers, moulded leather basques and holster cut outs.

Until 6th May 2012

http://www.groningermuseum.nl

Louis Vuitton Island Maison, Singapore

2012-02-13 00:00:00

Louis Vuitton’s last big retail spectacular was the Maison flagship store in London’s Bond Street, now the French luxury brand have turned their attention to the big bucks marina of Singapore. The brands long standing retail designer, Peter Marino has run wild with luxe materials and opulent finishing with an extravagant set up that laughs sycophantically in the face of ‘recession’.

Situated in the Marina Bay Sands resort (which already boasts a hotel, casino, mega-mall, skating rink and rooftop pool). You’d be forgiven for thinking you’d just stepped on board a yacht with a highly buffed wood staircase, an airy angular floating roof set up reminiscent of ships sails, glossy boat timber flooring, deck style seating and cabin style furnishings. The store includes a fine jewellery room, women’ accessories department and a men’s universe.

The store itself is fashioned like a stylised cruise shape and is accessible by bridge, ‘travelator’ which enters into the centre of the showroom from a subterranean tunnel or by private boat.

It’s uplifting to see such fine examples of no-expense-spared retail design, fashion still needs to aspire and inspire after all.

Prada opens its 24 hour Museum

2012-02-10 00:00:00

We have come across another leviathan creative collaboration for the Italian luxury brand, Prada teamed up with architect Rem Koolhaas' think-tank AMO and artist Francesco Vezzoli to create a concept '24 Hour' Museum.

Taking residence in Paris' grand Palais d'Iéna, thirteen figures with the bodies of Ancient Greek sculptures were reinterpreted with the faces of modern goddesses like Grace Kelly and Elizabeth Taylor, personalised with the eyes of Vezzoli's own mother. Described as a 'non-existent museum' Vezzoli divided the venue into three spaces inspired by a traditional museum – historic, contemporary and forgotten. We think it's delightfully kitsch on the right (or wrong) side of David LaChapelle with a steel cage backlit in pure pink neon lighting which turns into a nightclub by night.

The concept endures online, translating to an online where participants are invited to upload their own image online and have it 'Vezzolied' online.

Sustainably Beautiful Collection from Samuji for F/W12

2012-02-09 00:00:00

"Old Italy meets Finnish folklore" sums up the aestethics of Samu-Jussi Koski, the designer of Samuji, whose Fall / Winter 2012 collection premiered at Copenhagen Fashion week on Friday 3rd February.

Based in the old Vallila district in Helsinki, Finland, Samuji is about simple functionality, a love of necessary things, kindness and quality. "We strive to recreate an era when craftsmanship was valued and everything had a purpose. Our ambition is to produce sustainable design: clothes that last from season to season, in style and in quality."

"We work with fabrics from carefully selected manufacturers such as Bucol, Faliero Sarti, Liberty and Loro Piana,
with manufacturing exclusively in Europe," of materials including alpaca, reindeer suede and raw silk. Finnish folklore and national romantic sensibility have always been close to Koski’s heart. A black apron dress, white wide sleeve blouses and big coats were inspired by old black and white photographs of Karelian women. For the evening there is a selection of innocently glamorous cocktail dresses and a few statement pieces.

Crisp white shirts, smart tailoring, wash-and-wear silk tops, stripe jersey tunics and straightforward leather
accessories are staples found in every Samuji collection. New for the accessories line are laser-cut leather totes and
framed clutches that come in cognac, deep blue and black colours.

Samuji is definitely a design house to watch.

The New Antipodeans at London Fashion Week

2012-02-08 00:00:00

Five rising Australian designers will have the opportunity this month to present their collections during the prestigious London Fashion Week as part of the inaugural International Fashion Showcase. Each of the 19 participating countries will exhibit in their embassy or cultural institution, bringing together the work of over 80 budding international designers. An expert panel will award that country who presents the most impressive emerging talent.

Represented by L'Oreal Melbourne Fashion Festival (LMFF), Dress Up, Song for the Mute, Above, Limedrop and Christopher Esber form the 5 Australian designers selected to take part in this exciting initiative. A photographic exhibition entitled, 'Getting Dressed' will be hosted in the windows and exterior walls of Australia House in London. LMFF chief executive officer, Graeme Lewsey has reflected on this opportunity, saying that he believes it will provide “quality publicity exposure to Australian designers in a premium international context”.

The exhibition was shot by acclaimed Australian artist and photographer, Vincent Fantauzzo, and will be displayed from February 11th to 27th.

The Scandinavians Have Done it Again

2012-02-07 00:00:00

Copenhagen Fashion Week did not disappoint in delivering a fresh take on the classic minimalism and clean tailoring that we all know and love. Over the five days starting February 1st, almost all designers lauded the jacket; be it a corduroy, duffle, biker, bomber, jean, varsity, or knit jacket. Whatever the type, this was the piece of AW12 in Copenhagen. In particular, on Day Two we saw quirky detailing, metallic fabrics and abruptly cropped trousers that punctuated the otherwise crisp simplicity of the designers Stine Goya, Baum und Pferdgarten, and Bruuns Bazaar. Curious texture and colour combinations also caught our eye at these standout shows.

http://habitblogg.wordpress.com/

The Boys Set the Season: The Best of Menswear AW 2012-13

2012-02-06 00:00:00

It is a smart season for men finding their feet, and their place in a tumultuous social climate. Fashion editors have widely labelled it, 'The season of the suit' but 'suit' in the loosest sense of the word, it's not about boardroom-restriction but a more relaxed "taking it easy" approach. Key items include the effeminate waisted jacket and the ubiquitous 3/4 length trouser, the double breasted jacket and the hat. Some of the most interesting pieces were those that on face value kept it simple but experimented with graphic detail through print, panelling and expert cuts.

Without further ado, lets take further a look at some of the trends.

Bottega Veneta
Pay close attention to the brilliant Tomas Maier who offers a perfect recital in how to 'do' suits this season. The cuts are clean, relaxed (although not off-duty) and well fitting. Everything is designed to give the feeling of elongation, a confident male posture. Check out his brilliant blazers for a lesson in how to execute the graphic trend. Coated finishes on jackets and mercerised denims add a technical, sportif quality.

Christian Dior
Easily one of the most talked about menswear collections, Kris Van Assche masterfully crafted a collection extracting and refreshingly interpreting all the elements of military officers uniform without creating a tired pastiche. Looking nothing like a replica soldier, Van Assche used the collection as an excuse to dabble in sportswear but treating it with the same approach as tailoring. A distinctive olive green is the star of the show and saturates elongated zip hoodies, funnel neck jackets, flannel pleat front pants, belted jackets and capes. Again, the pieces were punctuated with minimal, graphic detail like contrasting paneling and piping.

Lanvin
Alber Elbaz and his co-designer Lucas Ossendrijver went all 'Lanvin' on the season's suit. Very manly pleat front pants were teamed with sharp shouldered jackets nipped in at the waist. A dramatic Balenciaga-esque shoulder bestowed jackets and sweaters alike – a shape only Alber could get away with. The palette was simply beautiful with bitter chocolate, ashy lilac, taupe and apricot. Sportswear detailing snuck its way in once again with athletic zips, coated fabrics, football shirt stripes and boxing boots

Dries Van Noten
Can Dries do wrong? Seemingly not! He managed to effortlessly merge Frank Zappa and Oscar Wilde together and make something wonderfully wearable. Models swaggered down the runway to a soundtrack of Zappa and a narration of The Happy Prince channelling 'Psychedelic Elegance' as the designer positioned it. Sixties prints courtsey of Dutch designer Gijs Frieling reflected a hippyish sentiment whilst the key pieces once again, were clearly reminiscent of Victoriana with cigarette pants, loose rollnecks and double breasted jackets enlivened with clever lapel detail.

John Galliano
Staying true to the house of Galliano's wonderful storytelling abilities, Bill Gaytten presented us with fellas from the 1930's from gansters to aviators. Essentially the collection checked off all the essentials of the season, but delivered it with a knowing wink and a coating of theatricality. Trousers had a little more swing in their step, belted jackets were offered in 'teddy bear' plush, ripstop aviator jackets were gentrified with a gentlemen's scarf, head's were crowned with beret's for an espionage touch. And of course for a touch of razzmataz there were sequinned blouses and gold shoes.

Raf Simons
Raf's provided a perfect lesson in how to do sports-inspired workwear that said, its definitely more 'Autumn' in the AW what with all the boy shorts. Those big, sculptured shoulders look extra broad when teamed with skinny cycling shorts. Light and loose blouson shirts nonchantly tie at the waist. Subtle texture comes from beautiful Rothko gradients that bleed out of sweaters.

Louis Vuitton
Another collection that got the editor's pen's scratching, Kim Jones delivered another well-recieved collection. This season's theme allegedly draws from two cities - Paris and Tokyo, two distinctive and culturally loaded destinations. It's the materials that make this collection and add luxury – crocodile patches, kangaroo fur, exquisite Japanese silks, and blanketing.

Prada
A show entitled " Prada Presents: Il Palazzo. A Palace of Role Play" is full of promise. A giant red courtyard set the scene for the power players, reminiscent of a grand royal hall or very big Hollywood red carpet. Again the running theme of military and dignitries was a prescient one – elevating high collars, Edwardian single breasted waiscoats, astrakahn collars, sateen lounge fabrics – you'd want to hear what this chap has to say. This sentiment was only bolstered by the roster of movie Royalty that took to the floor including Adrian Brody, Gary Oldman and Willem Defoe.

Pringle of Scotland
Colour stories didn't exactly leap out this season but Pringle's was beautifully handled. Sunset orange, wine reds and jade green were partnered with royal blue, nude and grey in a way that quite frankly looked effortlessy easy to accomplish, and not the least bit scary. Knitwear featured in every look styled with a basic piece and a more directional piece. The season's 3/4 lengths were delivered in bold leather coupled with boxy sports jackets.

http://www.style.com/video/fashion-shows-by-season/fall-2012-menswear/1386771594001/paris-highlights-fall-2012-menswear/1418518096001

Next Trend Seminars

2012-02-03 00:00:00

The Next Trend Seminars were held in Goteborg and Copenhagen last week. Hosted by Colourhouse and playing to packed auditoriums, SCOUT presented the key trends for SS2013 from a fashion,colour and styling perspective. The feedback was very clear, in this economic climate the investment in our services is a smart choice. People from around the globe attended the workshops to share their insights and debate the key issues regarding our industry. It was inspiring.

The video included in this post is a sneak peak at part of our presentation, The Exhibitionist…. it's a live look so hang on as it's a bit bumpy.
For more of what we were inspired by from Bread & Butter and Premium check out our monthly e-zine, SCOUTlook #6 out February 6th

Premium Fashion Trade Show Jan 2012

2012-02-02 00:00:00

This years PREMIUM surpassed our (naturally) high expectations.
PREMIUM consistently delivers a unique mix of established brands and the up-and-coming, presented in a visually stimulating way – generating constant excitement for all involved about what’s next to be discovered around the corner...
It's a great space and the people watching is always a fascination for us.

We caught up with Anita Tillman - owner and CEO of Premium exhibitions who made the point that in todays economic climate to have had more exhibitors and visitors was a great result and feedback is that orders are stronger than last year.
The trade show also honoured three designers with the PREMIUM Young Designer’s Award F/W 2012/2013. German label Blame (blame-fashion.com) took the honours for Womenswear; the Menswear category was won by Lukasz Stachowicz from Poland (suitcaseofideas.com), and by Rita in Palma for their incredible accessories (rita-in-palma.com).

We can’t wait to get back to Berlin in July for the Premium Spring Summer 2013 so diaries marked for July 4th - 6th… we have!

Jil Sander Pre Fall 2012

2012-02-01 00:00:00

It’s hard to get your head around spring/summer collections trickling into stores when it’s snowing outside. It’s even harder to think about the months that will follow. The exception: When Raf Simmons' of Jil Sander delivers a Pre-Fall collection you can’t stop gushing over.

Taking a different direction from last seasons light, pretty fare, Raf finds inspiration from the intellectual Ivy League college girl. A sorority common room sets the scene for the look book, shot by renowned photographer – Ben Weller. Young bright females lounge, read or play cards and discuss amongst themselves. Raf successfully honours the classic uniform, creating bomber jackets, v-neck sweaters, over the knee skirts in traditional university colours. The oversized ‘J’ emblem is featured throughout, adding a signature touch, and setting us up for a cosy, stylish Fall.

A/W 2012/13 Paris Wrap

2012-01-31 00:00:00

The big news in Paris was the announcement that London will hold a three day menswear event from June 15 to 17 this year, called London Collections: Men. Menswear is one of the few areas of fashion that is booming despite the gloomy economic outlook. Key looks from Paris included military and camouflage; tartans and checks, puffer jackets, sportswear in suiting (especially the sleek zippered jersey that will replace the cardigan), leather and reinventing the suit – whether in separates, mixed materials or new proportions. Where Milan is conservative, Paris is more experimental, but with an eye to retail reality.

3.1 Phillip Lim

Elegant suiting meets punk and anarchy, with Britain’s rudeboys and suedeheads adding a little grit. Lim was also inspired by the recent anger of the Occupy Wall Street movement. This translated to sturdy Doc Martens boots, 80’s style bomber jackets, nylon and PVC duffle coats, rudeboy checks and white socks with everything. Many jackets featured mixed materials, like boiled wool with leather. Loved the translucent PVC “duffle coat”.

Key colours: beyond basic black and white, the main colours were plaster grey, chalky blue plus a shot of orange or violet as accents.

Styling point: inside-out layering: sweaters half worn over coats, waistcoats over jackets.

Miharayasuhiro

A new take on military, using traditional kimono silk weaving techniques for a play on camouflage. As at Phillip Lim, Mihara used reversal, showing lining fabrics on the outside of coats. He turned up the cuffs on elegant pea coats to reveal vibrant silks. Slim suits were topped with oversized flight jackets, cowl necks replaced ties and checks were layered in different sizes.

Key colours: somber charcoal, black and khaki, with tarnished gold.

Styling detail: cowl-necks in sumptuous kimono silk to top off a suit.

Dior Homme

Another military-inspired collection. Kris Van Assche showed variations on a military theme, in a signature olive green. He also played with sportswear for a lighter feel, adding blouson jackets, looser trousers and the zip-through jersey ‘track’ jackets that will be next season’s cardigan. There was also the inside-out look that proved so popular in Paris, and a play on camouflage with embroidered doves.

Key colours: khaki and olive, lightened by shades of sand and off-white.

Styling point: the slightly menacing baseball and aviators combo.

Balmain

For a completely different and very romantic take on military, see Olivier Rousteing’s second collection for Balmain. Byronic heroes, Russian Imperialists, Nureyev and motorbike style all inspired a tough/elegant look. And so we got padded motorcross pants in deep red velvet with biker boots in the softest leather. Double-breasted waistcoats with brass buttons, grandpa collar shirts, slim-shouldered officer’s coats and oversized flight jackets.

Key colours: a rich claret red, black, navy and an off-white, especially for the Regency Dandy trousers.

Styling point: Elegant, slim-shouldered jackets with tough, padded motorcross pants.

Kenzo

Opening Ceremony designers Humberto Leon and Carol Lim took over the reigns at Kenzo this season, and took inspiration from Steve Jobs! Not a black turtleneck in sight, though. They took to the Kenzo archives for comfortable suiting mixed with sportswear, reversible pieces, quilted jackets based on traditional Japanese shapes, offbeat colour combinations and a vintage Kenzo medallion print. The models looked like characters from a Wes Anderson film: cool, stylish eccentrics.

Key colours: burgundy, French navy, forest green, with shots of lime and orange.

Styling point: the new ‘lanyard’ – keep your keys, security pass and train pass handy!

Lanvin

According to Alber Elbaz, in fashion, modernity for its own sake is not important; it’s relevance to our lives is key. Looking at how to make the suit new and relevant, it was pulled into separates, shoulders were dropped, waists got higher and silhouettes more curvy. Lanvin also offered slim, collarless zip-through knits to replace the sweater or cardigan. There were ombre-dyed tartans and subtle checks, a few broad stripes; but colour was generally low-key.

Key colours: shades of smoke, charcoal and khaki, plus a chalky blue; orange and red for accents.

Styling point: Mod style parkers over suits and sporty white high tops with suit pants.

Mens A/W 13 Milan Wrap

2012-01-30 00:00:00

Milan

If Milan had one message, it was suiting. There was a return to traditional, slightly conservative suiting, plenty of British-style tailoring and an elegant take on military style.

Here are the key collections:

Alexander McQueen

Sarah Burton put a strong emphasis on tailoring, with a bespoke mini-range that will be available through Huntsman of Savile Row. The rest of the collection took inspiration from the original Vanity Fair magazine, offering looks inspired by Regency and Victorian gentlemen and rogues. Some more modern shapes came in ombre-dyed checks and even wild galaxy prints for the label’s rock-star customers. All-in-all, an elegant, slightly sober collection.

Key colours: Deep burgundy and oxblood, French navy, charcoal.

Styling point: cropped trousers worn with knee socks to emphasize a Regency Dandy air.

Burberry Prorsum

Christopher Bailey offered slim silhouettes and military touches, in a collection called “The Gentlemen”. Proper English gents with their brollies, mixed with country touches: a quilted hunting jacket, a tweed cap, a hand-knit sweater. He introduced a look that we saw all through Milan and Paris: the slim-cut suit topped with oversized outerwear; a bit of a street edge from a giant down jacket or flight jacket. The slightly cowel-neck knit in a fine gauge and the almost folksy sweaters with owl and fox motifs brought in a softer side.

Key colours: rich forest tones of mocha, forest green, amber and sapphire

Styling point: casual, military influenced jackets over city suiting.

Dolce & Gabbana

The designers were influenced by opera, Sicilian families and a sense of the baroque. There was a sense of decadence, reminiscent of a Visconti film, ranging from the 1880s to the late 1970s. The embroidered jackets and coats had an elegant, military feel, worn over charcoal pinstripe suiting or silk pyjamas. The show finished with a parade of formal overcoats, finished off with velvet, astrakhan and brocade.

Key colours: sombre shades of charcoal and black with nude, teal, claret and bronze.

Styling point: outerwear over louche pyjamas.

Gucci

Another decadent, Visconti collection full of brocade, fur, oversized coats and skinny pants and that rich claret that became a key colour of the season. Giannini cited Visconti and 70’s Mitteleuropa; so we got a rich and slightly dark collection of well-bred equestrian pieces, Prussian military jackets, tapestry, jacquard, pony skin and devore velvet with a moody colour palette straight from Visconti’s “Ludwig”.

Key colours: bronze, Prussian Blue, claret, oxblood and ink.

Styling point: a silk foulard tucked into the neckline, in lieu of a shirt.